Mods/Improvements for your G&L

Leo's "Final Frontier"

Moderators: rockinrayduke, Templar, spideyjg, GGJaguar, Flash

Truss Rod Bullet Info

Postby jamie » Sun Jan 07, 2007 5:45 pm

On my 1998, the bullet is seated deep in the headstock.

1 inch long,
approx 1/4 inch diameter,
and the trussrod is a 10-32 thread.

NOTE: G&L now recommends 2 washers on the trussrod.

Per Dan Erlewine's column, Trussrods: Doing The Job Right, use a very light application of petroleum jelly to lube the bullet's threads.



jamie
Last edited by jamie on Sat Mar 03, 2007 6:39 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Electronic techie stuff..

Postby spideyjg » Sun Jan 14, 2007 8:53 pm

Chip info.
The preamp of the G&L's have used 2 types of IC's an LM4250 in version 1.1 or a LF441 in version 1.0. Most I have seen are the LM4250's. According to an engineer an OPA704PA from Texas Instruments will drop in to either board and work fine. You can get 5 samples from here on the Texas Instruments page...

Supposedly a NTE944, or the NJM4250D from Mouser, are the equivalent of the LM4250.
The LF441 supposedly has an equivalent LF351M from Mouser.
To the best of my knowledge no one has tested these particular chips in an actual instrument.

This is the inside of a stock Climax.
Image

The preamp in here has the LF441 and draws 200 microamps of current. The Climax did not use a stereo jack and the preamp is on all the time. It will suck down a battery in about 3-4 months whether plugged in or not. I did test the OPA704PA and the current draw dropped to 180 microamps.

The other G&L's I have checked out draw 50 microamps of current only when they are plugged in. This lower current draw gives about 12 months of battery life if it was never unplugged. This is the inside of the pimped L2K.

Image

The treble boost on the Climax preamp is quite a bit more than the treble boost setting on the L-2000 preamp. The difference is that R7 is 2.2k-ohm instead of 21.5K-ohm. This is where the intense snarl comes from. When the L-2000 goes treble boost the 21.5k-ohm turns into a 6.8K.
Image

Jim

More to come.....
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Postby spideyjg » Sun Feb 18, 2007 12:07 pm

Possible but expensive Tribby replacement tuners..Info courtesy of Mr. Yamato in Japan.

GB528 and GB528S
http://www.cocosound.jp/cocosound/gotoh/bass_machinehead.htm

and more
GB528
http://www.cocosound.jp/cocosound/gotoh/pict/gb528_s.jpg
GB528S
http://www.cocosound.jp/cocosound/gotoh/pict/gb528s_s.jpg

and the price .. Japanese Yen
http://www.cocosound.jp/cocosound/gotoh/price/gb350_gb528s_p.htm
1$ is about 120 Yen.
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Postby daveplaysbass » Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:08 am

Here's a condensed version of some of stuff I had posted on the old site that shall not be named [smilie=cool-smiley-031.gif]

Here's something I grabbed and put in a Word document regarding coil types (series, parallel, bass boost, single, etc). This was a post at one time but I feared it might someday disappear.

https://home.comcast.net/~carol7david/GL_Coils.doc


Here's the document many have used to go the single coil route. For $25 in parts and a less than 10 solder joints, you can transform a L2K style instrument to a L1K style instrument.

https://home.comcast.net/~carol7david/GL_Wiring.doc

Digi-Key's site to obtain the mentioned switch


I bought a Climax and did not like the huge treble boost (see Jim's post for the frequency response). Here's how to change the Climax preamp to be like the L2K. All you need to do is change one resistor on the PCB. This is less than $1 in parts and less than 10 solder joints.

https://home.comcast.net/~carol7david/G ... Preamp.doc


Here's a sketch of what I did to my L2K Tribute. I love single coil clarity. The MFDs in single coil mode have the depth that many traditional jazz pickups need EQ help to achieve. This mod changes the parallel / series switch to be a "outside" single coils / "inside" single coils switch. I love it. The outside coils together are like a 70's style J with a P. And the inside coils soloed have depth and kick.

https://home.comcast.net/~carol7david/G ... ly_Mod.pdf


Another fascination of mine is strings. They can have as much impact on tone as anything and at $20 a pack I am constantly looking for the perfect one. This is the old D'Addario tension chart that somehow has disappeared from the DA site.

https://home.comcast.net/~carol7david/DA_Tension.pdf
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Postby sunbeast » Fri Mar 09, 2007 12:22 am

Ken Baker wrote:This is part of a discussion of converting a Stew-Mac 500K dual concentric pot to 250K/1M

Is there a way to convert a 500k/500k stackpot into a 250K/1meg, so can use it as a stacked t/b control?


Taking a 500K pot and reducing its value is, as noted above in this thread, a simple matter of networking in parallel resistance. You just have to remember that the curve will not be precise; but while the curve isn't pretty, the pot/resistor combo will still vary resistance from zero ohms to whatever its modded value is.

Increasing the value would mean adding resistance in series with the pot, which means that the max value will be as you want it. However, when you crank back the pot completely, the least resistance it will show the circuit will be the value of the resistor you added in series. It will not reduce resistance to zero ohms as it would if the series-connected resistor weren't there.

Ken...


Another possibility for a stacked 250K/250K pot is to buy the CTS 250K/500K and a seperate CTS 250K Audio pot, and open them up + switch the carbon ring parts out. The size/shape of the CTS 250K components and 500K are the same, so they can be interchanged very easily. I have a whole bunch of random CTS pots and have done this a few times- I most recently did it with my SB-2 to add a tone pot...I'm sure you could do the same with a CTS 1 meg pot as well.

Karl
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Bass and Treble on a Single Concentric

Postby daveplaysbass » Sat Mar 10, 2007 1:27 pm

If you want to wire the bass and treble cut on one pot, a 500K concentric is an option that is widely available and gets you a lot of the way there. What have you lost?

Treble Cut: Not much. You now actually have more high end with the tone control wide open. You can replicate the 250K Treble cut settings with a 500K tone control and add some high end that you cannot get with a 250K tone. However, finding your sweet spot on the pot rotation may take some expermentation. It is there but now you have a tone pot that covers more ground so it may be harder to find your spot if you have a set Treble cut position.

Bass Cut: You are giving up the last half of the range. If you do not find yourself cutting beyond the 1/2 way point, the 500K used as a bass cut will not change your tone at all. The bass cut pot is not a "loading" or "parallel" adjustment. It goes in "series" with your output signal. When you run the bass cut wide open (no bass cut) it is essentially a short circuit that has no loading or appreciable effect on the tone you pass to the jack. I believe the 1Meg used on the bass cut is linear. I believe most 500K concentrics may be log. You may want to pay attention to how you use a log pot for a bass cut.
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Re: Mods/Improvements for your G&L

Postby jfh4242 » Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:08 am

Hi Guys!

I am wondering if there is some way to modify the electronics of my L2000 to include the single coil option. I do not mind giving up the parallel setting for this by the way: I do not really use it.

I am pretty sure I could not do the job myself but if it is possible, I could bring it in to my tech to do.

Thanks a million!

John
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Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Re: Mods/Improvements for your G&L

Postby Gil Escalera » Thu Jan 24, 2008 9:35 pm

Hey John,

Dave's post above (daveplaysbass on Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:08 am) has all the information necessary to wire the SC option. You can also obtain the three position switch from Butch Ammons (Bayou Cables) if you want to go Series/Single Coil/Parallel. ;)

- Gil
To "B" or not to "B"... that is the question. ;)
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Re: Mods/Improvements for your G&L

Postby jfh4242 » Mon Jan 28, 2008 12:42 pm

Gil Escalera wrote:Hey John,

Dave's post above (daveplaysbass on Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:08 am) has all the information necessary to wire the SC option. You can also obtain the three position switch from Butch Ammons (Bayou Cables) if you want to go Series/Single Coil/Parallel. ;)

- Gil


Thanks GIl and Dave, that is great!

John
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Location: Montreal, Quebec, Canada

Re: Mods/Improvements for your G&L

Postby Mr. Mom » Wed May 14, 2008 5:35 pm

Fellas, asked this before on another forum but can't remember the response: I'd like to replace the pickup selector switch with a blend knob. Is this possible? Pros and cons?

Thanks in advance!
I don't know and I don't care,
'Cause I don't wear Tonto's underwear.
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Re: El Toro correction.....

Postby spideyjg » Thu Jun 05, 2008 7:09 pm

There is a mistake on the El Toro schematic from the G&L website. Look at the middle switch.
Image

In the schematic it shows both white wires on a single lug. Andy and Tim tried to wire theirs with this schematic and had issues. Putting the white wires as in the pic fixed it. The white wire from the neck pickup goes to the empty lug in the schematic.

Jim
Silverbass wrote:gawd damn the pusher man
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Re: Mods/Improvements for your G&L

Postby rsnell22 » Mon Aug 04, 2008 8:16 pm

Ken,

Thanks for the wonderful L-2000/2500 wiring diagram.

It came in real handy today when I shielded one of mine, earlier today.
Can't hear the local AM radio station through it anymore.
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Location: Western WA, USA

Re: Mods/Improvements for your G&L

Postby Ken Baker » Mon Aug 04, 2008 8:34 pm

rsnell22 wrote:Ken,

Thanks for the wonderful L-2000/2500 wiring diagram.

It came in real handy today when I shielded one of mine, earlier today.
Can't hear the local AM radio station through it anymore.


Thank you!!!!

Glad to hear that it was a help.

Ken...
...at least the doctors find me fascinating...
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Re: Mods/Improvements for your G&L

Postby rsnell22 » Wed Aug 06, 2008 7:29 am

More on my L-2500 shielding :

I went the copper foil route, with all the pieces of foil connected with solder.

When I removed the pickups, I found that there wasn't enough room for foil on the sides of the cavities, and that there is already a grounded plate on the bottom of the pickup. I did not (for now) add any shielding to the pickup cavities.
I'll get back into it if I have to, but the slots were so tight that it would require removal of some wood to allow for the copper
foil to not be binding on the pickup case.

In the control cavity, I soldered a wire onto the shield and landed it at the ground terminal on the cover of the volume pot. That puts it right at the pickup and preamp grounding point. I'm not so sure that a star grounding approach would do much better.

Right or wrong, that's what I did, and the bass is definitely more quiet. The real test will be when I take it back to the noisy building.
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Re: Mods/Improvements for your G&L

Postby Ken Baker » Mon Aug 11, 2008 8:37 pm

rsnell22 wrote:More on my L-2500 shielding :

I went the copper foil route, with all the pieces of foil connected with solder.


Wow. Sounds like you got serious about it. Note for the future: the adhesive is conductive, so there's no need to solder the pieces together.

When I removed the pickups, I found that there wasn't enough room for foil on the sides of the cavities, and that there is already a grounded plate on the bottom of the pickup. I did not (for now) add any shielding to the pickup cavities.
I'll get back into it if I have to, but the slots were so tight that it would require removal of some wood to allow for the copper
foil to not be binding on the pickup case.


I ran into that on the bridge pickup when I did both my SB-2 and the local school's SB-2. I just got it worked as tightly to the wood as possible.

In the control cavity, I soldered a wire onto the shield and landed it at the ground terminal on the cover of the volume pot. That puts it right at the pickup and preamp grounding point. I'm not so sure that a star grounding approach would do much better.


It's pretty much impossible to do a star ground with the L series basses. There's just way too much going on in the cavity. Being active, the difference would be nil anyway.

Right or wrong, that's what I did, and the bass is definitely more quiet. The real test will be when I take it back to the noisy building.


Definitely right. Excellent job. Do let us know how it works in the noise.

Ken...
...at least the doctors find me fascinating...
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