P/J wiring question

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P/J wiring question

Postby dukeplaysbass » Mon Feb 14, 2011 11:57 am

So, I grabbed a USACG body and neck from "over there" and am building a clone to Rob DeLeo (Stone Temple Pilots) custom shop Schecter bass. (Obviously, this is for my STP tribute band....)

I'm going to go with the DiMarzio DP126 set ((link for description) that has a hum canceling J.

The bass has just two holes in the control plate, and a fairly small looking control cavity. I'd really like to wire this V/T & V/T using a pair of stacked pots, like a 60-62 Jazz.

I'm finding some mini 250k/250k pots of unknown origin ((250/250). But all the CTS or Bourns stacked pots are all 250/500.

The bass is on it's way, so I won't know whether I can use the normal size pots for a few more days. If I can only fit minis, then the question is moot.

If I can use normal size pots, but can't find a name I trust, how the 250/500 will affect what I'm trying to do?

Any advice, o wise brothers?
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Wunkay Wuver
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Re: P/J wiring question

Postby Ken Baker » Sat Feb 19, 2011 10:42 pm

There are a couple ways to attack the problem unless forced into the mini pots:

1. Wire a pair of 1M 1/4W resistors across the outer legs of the 500K pot. This will yield an effective resistance of 250K. The downside is that it screws with the audio taper curve a bit. Still, it works well. I've used this method with good results.

2. Use the 250K side as your tone pot, with appropriate cap. Use the 500K side as-is for the volume pot. it'll work just fine, but will be a bit brighter sounding than a 250K volume pot.

Note that you can mitigate some of the additional brightness of the circuit by very carefully and thoroughly shielding all the bass' cavities. If the pickup leads are already shielded, this effect will be reduced. Close proximity of the shield to the leads renders the greatest benefit.

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Ken Baker
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