Replacing Output Jack

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Replacing Output Jack

Postby androwal » Fri Jan 11, 2008 11:34 pm

I am getting some nasty sound when my patch-cord is pulled to the side a bit when plugged-in to my Mark III Fretted. I have some new output jacks and am thinking of just replacing the old one...although it might just need adjustment or I'll find a loosish wire.

Problematic or easy to replace????
Last edited by androwal on Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
4 Wals (2 Fretless, 2 Fretted), Zon Fretless 5 - Custom, '75 Fender Jazz, Custom Fretless, Headless Spirit, WT800, Epifani UL410, Roland, Lexicon, Bradshaw
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Re: Replacing Input Jack

Postby noahvale » Sat Jan 12, 2008 4:50 am

It's not a standard jack. It's a strange little jack with a switch that turns off the hot to the preamp. It's not too hard to change, but it takes a special jack.
You can get the jack from http://www.mouser.com I don't remember the part number.
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Re: Replacing Input Jack

Postby WalCustom » Sat Jan 12, 2008 5:22 am

noahvale wrote:It's not a standard jack. It's a strange little jack with a switch that turns off the hot to the preamp. It's not too hard to change, but it takes a special jack.
You can get the jack from http://www.mouser.com I don't remember the part number.


I think that the jack is a Switchcraft part. However, as NV says, it's not a standard part. RAther than using a stereo jack and having the ring and sleeve contacts used to complete the circuit it actually has a physical, mechanical contact switch which is closed by the jack plug pushing on it. Elegant but unusual!
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Re: Replacing Input Jack

Postby bbocaner » Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:50 am

It's switchcraft part number 13, 1/4" jack with isolated "make" circuit.

When you take out the old jack, be careful. The jack is ingeniously bodged together. The jack is put inside a neutrik XLR shell. There's a screw on the side. Sometimes this screw is ground off, sometimes not. you do NOT want to take this screw out. There's like a threaded brass insert inside the neutrik housing, which is held in by this screw. the switchcraft jack screws into this brass insert. ONce you take the housing out of the bass, you should just be able to unscrew the switchcraft jack from the insert. If you take the insert out, it'll be very difficult to get back in again tightly.

And what's with calling it an input jack? It's an output jack! No signal goes "in" to the bass! [smilie=smilie_kopf.gif]
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Re: Replacing Input Jack

Postby androwal » Sat Jan 12, 2008 6:12 pm

bbocaner wrote:It's switchcraft part number 13, 1/4" jack with isolated "make" circuit.

When you take out the old jack, be careful. The jack is ingeniously bodged together. The jack is put inside a neutrik XLR shell. There's a screw on the side. Sometimes this screw is ground off, sometimes not. you do NOT want to take this screw out. There's like a threaded brass insert inside the neutrik housing, which is held in by this screw. the switchcraft jack screws into this brass insert. ONce you take the housing out of the bass, you should just be able to unscrew the switchcraft jack from the insert. If you take the insert out, it'll be very difficult to get back in again tightly.

And what's with calling it an input jack? It's an output jack! No signal goes "in" to the bass! [smilie=smilie_kopf.gif]


And right you are!!! My brain was obviously on break at the time. Corrections made.

Now...can I replace the OUTput jack without taking the housing out of the bass? And to be clear....the insert is inside the housing, thus there is no problem with replacing the housing after my work is done??? I just have to avoid removing the insert from the housing???

PS I actually purchased some No. 13s some time ago to have them on hand just in case!
4 Wals (2 Fretless, 2 Fretted), Zon Fretless 5 - Custom, '75 Fender Jazz, Custom Fretless, Headless Spirit, WT800, Epifani UL410, Roland, Lexicon, Bradshaw
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Re: Replacing Output Jack

Postby noahvale » Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:35 pm

I remember that part number now. I got it from http://www.mouser.com. $5 or so I believe. It wasn't a problem getting it out of the bass I worked on. What made a bigger difference is when I re-routed some of the sloppy wiring so that it was all running together. That got rid of some hum.
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Re: Replacing Output Jack

Postby Arwid » Thu Jan 17, 2008 3:34 pm

Oh, I have the exact same thing with my wal. Luckily I'm like Bill Wyman while I'm on stage, so I can live with this problem. I don't like the positioning of the output jack, I'd like to have it on top of the bass, like jazz bass (and similar), ..and that output jack is so deeply attached in the body too, had some problems finding suitable cord while standing on stage. (previous band "left" me a plug that didn't fit) Not much fun for me or for the audience
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Re: Replacing Output Jack

Postby bassplace » Thu Jan 17, 2008 7:19 pm

So do the MkI jack plates require a skinny 1/4" plug like the Pros? Butch's cable are great. Gotta use the staight plug in the jack though.

Hey Butch, how are you with circuit boards and finding parts? My ProIIe board could use some help but some of the old parts are hard to find.

dunc
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Re: Replacing Input Jack

Postby walwear » Fri Jan 18, 2008 11:59 am

androwal wrote:Now...can I replace the OUTput jack without taking the housing out of the bass? And to be clear....the insert is inside the housing, thus there is no problem with replacing the housing after my work is done??? I just have to avoid removing the insert from the housing???

PS I actually purchased some No. 13s some time ago to have them on hand just in case!


Andro:

You are much better off removing the housing so that you can have easy access to the four solder points. This really isn't a big deal at all. First, remove the two wood screws that hold the flange of the 1/4" jack housing to the bottom of the bass and pull the housing out of the body as far as you can. You'll now have wires dangling through the hole in the body and the entire housing will be in your hand. Grasp the jack assembly with one hand hand the housing with the other. Hold the jack assembly firmly so that it doesn't twist and break or kink the wires. Twist the housing counter-clockwise. You are simply unscrewing the housing from the jack assembly. Depending upon the age of your bass, it might take a little effort but it will ultimately break loose and unscrew with ease. Once the housing is off, you can push the jack assembly back into the body and pull it out of the cavity (assuming you have removed the cavity cover). You should have plenty of room do remove and solder in the new jack assembly. Bottom line, it's a piece of cake.

Erik
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Re: Replacing Input Jack

Postby androwal » Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:49 am

walwear wrote:
androwal wrote:Now...can I replace the OUTput jack without taking the housing out of the bass? And to be clear....the insert is inside the housing, thus there is no problem with replacing the housing after my work is done??? I just have to avoid removing the insert from the housing???

PS I actually purchased some No. 13s some time ago to have them on hand just in case!


Andro:

You are much better off removing the housing so that you can have easy access to the four solder points. This really isn't a big deal at all. First, remove the two wood screws that hold the flange of the 1/4" jack housing to the bottom of the bass and pull the housing out of the body as far as you can. You'll now have wires dangling through the hole in the body and the entire housing will be in your hand. Grasp the jack assembly with one hand hand the housing with the other. Hold the jack assembly firmly so that it doesn't twist and break or kink the wires. Twist the housing counter-clockwise. You are simply unscrewing the housing from the jack assembly. Depending upon the age of your bass, it might take a little effort but it will ultimately break loose and unscrew with ease. Once the housing is off, you can push the jack assembly back into the body and pull it out of the cavity (assuming you have removed the cavity cover). You should have plenty of room do remove and solder in the new jack assembly. Bottom line, it's a piece of cake.

Erik


Erik,

Many thanks! Wonderfully helpful yet another time. Very clear and specific instructions for me to follow!

Best,

Andro
4 Wals (2 Fretless, 2 Fretted), Zon Fretless 5 - Custom, '75 Fender Jazz, Custom Fretless, Headless Spirit, WT800, Epifani UL410, Roland, Lexicon, Bradshaw
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Re: Replacing Output Jack

Postby androwal » Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:27 pm

Well I finally am getting to do this output jack change and I can't find my supply of 13s. I purchased them a long time ago and they have disappeared into the house somewhere. I need to purchase more and went to the site suggested. Would someone please confirm that this is the Switchcraft 13 that I need?

Thanks!


Product Information
Mouser Part #: 502-13
Manufacturer Part #: 13
Manufacturer: Switchcraft
Description: Phone Jacks JACK W/MAKE SWITCH
Data Sheet
Ordering Information
Stock: 19 Can Ship Immediately
On Order: ---
Factory Lead-Time: 9 Days (Estimated)
Pricing: 1: $9.31
10: $8.46
25: $8.04
100: $7.61
500: $7.19

More:
Get Quote

Min.: 1, Mult.: 1


Specifications
RoHS: Details
Color: Metal
Diameter: 19.05 mm
Gender: Female
Mounting Style: Panel
Number of Positions / Contacts: 2
Product: Audio/Video Connectors - Audio Phone
Product Category: Phone Jacks



PS I remember them being cheaper last time!
4 Wals (2 Fretless, 2 Fretted), Zon Fretless 5 - Custom, '75 Fender Jazz, Custom Fretless, Headless Spirit, WT800, Epifani UL410, Roland, Lexicon, Bradshaw
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Re: Replacing Output Jack

Postby bbocaner » Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:44 am

that's the one
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Re: Replacing Output Jack

Postby noahvale » Mon Feb 25, 2008 7:08 am

bassplace wrote:Hey Butch, how are you with circuit boards and finding parts? My ProIIe board could use some help but some of the old parts are hard to find.

dunc


Not so good. I can find most current production parts, but that's easy.
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Re: Replacing Output Jack

Postby androwal » Mon Feb 25, 2008 6:02 pm

bbocaner wrote:that's the one



Thanks...I ordered them.

Someday I'll find the others that are stored somewhere in the house for one of these "just-in-case" happenings.

Best.
4 Wals (2 Fretless, 2 Fretted), Zon Fretless 5 - Custom, '75 Fender Jazz, Custom Fretless, Headless Spirit, WT800, Epifani UL410, Roland, Lexicon, Bradshaw
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